Established in 2014, the NUS Singapore History Prize seeks to honour the best books in the history of Singapore, which are accessible to a wide audience of non-specialists; contribute to our appreciation of the human dimension of history; bring to light new information and insights into Singaporean history; challenge our pre-existing understanding of the past; and bring Singapore’s history alive in new and exciting ways. The Prize aims, in short, to promote the most engaging works on the history of Singapore to a wide audience.

The 2024 Prize is awarded to Khir Johari for his book The Food of Singapore Malays: Gastronomic Travels through the Archipelago.

In his book, The Food of Singapore Malays: Gastronomic Travels through the Archipelago, Khir Johari uses the medium of food to bring alive the rich connectivities between the different parts of the Malay Archipelago (Nusantara), many centuries ago. Long before Raffles arrived in Singapore, it was already a thriving entrepot in this vibrant Malay world. As Khir Johari says: “As an entrepot, Singapore absorbed the diverse cuisines of the Nusantara.” (43) The rich culinary traditions of the Malay community in Singapore are a result of many historical trends. The book also offers significant historical and sociocultural insights into the Malay world. Elegantly crafted, beautifully presented, eminently readable, and informed by a wide array of sources, this engaging study will appeal to scholars and the wider reading public. Reading it will be an enchanting experience.

Khir Johari says that these old historical connections explain why “by the 20th century, Singapore was the New York of the Nusantara, its pulsating central nerve of culture and commerce.” (66) He argues that the journeymen, migrants, and traders of the area helped shape the culinary landscape of Singapore. The people of this island, however, also influenced the culinary traditions of the Nusantara. As he writes: “Our island is not only a recipient of the creations from all reaches of the Archipelago. It is a creative kitchen hub, spewing forth its own interpretations of what it means to be delicious, and through that, what it means to be Malay.”

Besides tracing the historical roots of Malay cuisine, Khir Johari also provides detailed descriptions of the Malay dishes, the ingredients deployed to prepare them, and the methods and implements employed to cook them. He highlights the attention that the Malay community paid to the use of fresh herbs and spices in its cuisine. He describes the traditional preparation techniques. He shines light on the communal nature of Malay cooking and dining. He also unpacks the cultural and religious significance of food among the Malays. To better appreciate the cultural identity and heritage of Singaporean Malays, Khir Johari urges us to peer into the history of their food and their culinary practices.

Beyond the cultural and historical significance of the food of Singaporean Malays, the book includes a number of recipes. Khir Johari gives detailed instructions on how to recreate the traditional Malay dishes. His anecdotes and stories are about their origins, which ingredient is most important, and what makes each distinct enhance our appreciation of the food. He further spices up the learning experience with vibrant photographs of the dishes – each conveying additional details and ideas about the Malay cuisine.

Deftly weaving together academic, community, and personal history, Khir Johari makes an important contribution to our understanding of the long history of Singapore. His study enriches our appreciation of Singapore, its people, and their cuisine in remarkable and surprising ways. In so doing, moreover, he makes a significant contribution to the history of food and foodways more generally, making his book particularly worthy of the Prize.

The members of the jury also believe that two other contenders of the NUS Singapore History Prize deserve special commendation and recognition. Ranked in order of priority, they are Reviving Qixi: Singapore’s Forgotten Seven Sisters Festival and Theatres of Memory: Industrial Heritage of 20^th Century Singapore.